Pingtan Island’s 700-year-old sea salt industry is vanishing—only three families still practice this ancient craft. I spent a week with the Chen family, the last saltmakers of Jiujing Village, to document their disappearing way of life before the ocean reclaims it forever.
How Pingtan Salt Is Made (The Old Way)
Tidal Harvesting
- Farmers channel seawater into stone-walled evaporation pools at pre-dawn high tide
- “We wait for northwest winds—they dry faster,” says Old Chen
- Crystal Cultivation
- 15 days of sun-crusting creates “snowflake salt” (雪盐)
- Workers rake crystals barefoot to prevent contamination
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- Bamboo baskets lined with dried seaweed for storage
- 1 pool = ¥1,800 worth of salt (after 20 days’ labor)
Caption: Old Chen’s feet have been hardened by 40 years of saltwater exposure.
Why This Tradition Is Disappearing
- Climate Change: Rising sea levels flood pools (3 lost since 2020)
- Labor Crisis: Youth refuse backbreaking wor
- k (¥200/day wage)
- Competition: Industrial salt sells for 1/10th the price
Last Holdouts:
| Name | Age | Output (kg/year) | Buyers |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chen Family | 72 | 3,000 | High-end chefs |
| Lin Sisters | 68 | 1,200 | Tea masters |
| Widow Huang | 81 | 400 | Local rituals |
How to Experience It Responsibly
- Visit Jiujing Village (Ask for “lao yan tian” 老盐田)
- Donation: ¥50-100 to enter salt fields
- Best Time: May-June (driest harvest season)
- Buy Authentic Salt
- Look for hand-stamped cloth bags at Pingtan Market (Stall #7)
- Avoid fakes: Real Pingtan salt sparkles with micro-crystals
- Photography Ethics
- Never walk on drying pools
- Use polarizing filters to reduce glare
A Dying Art’s New Hope
Some young chefs are reviving demand:
- Shanghai’s Ultraviolet pays ¥580/kg for cocktail rimming
- Taiwanese tea masters claim it enhances oolong flavor
“My son films TikTok videos of me working—city kids think it’s ‘magic.’ If only magic paid bills.”
— Old Chen, Salt Farmer
