Pingtan’s Abandoned Military Bunkers: A Cold War Time Capsule Frozen in Time
Hidden among Pingtan’s windswept cliffs and overgrown coastal trails lies a network of eerie, concrete military bunkers—ghostly remnants of Taiwan Strait tensions that have been reclaimed by nature and transformed into accidental art installations. These forgotten fortifications, built between the 1950s-1970s, offer one of China’s most atmospheric windows into Cold War history. After gaining rare access through a retired PLA officer, I explored these decaying sentinels to document their secrets before they vanish into the sea.
A Strategic Stronghold in the Taiwan Strait
Pingtan’s location—just 68 nautical miles from Taiwan’s Matsu Islands—made it ground zero for Cold War defenses. At the conflict’s peak, over 200 bunkers dotted the coastline, including:
- Artillery Nests (cannon positions facing Taiwan)
- Submarine Watchtowers (with underground sonar rooms)
- Soldier Barracks (housing up to 50 troops)
By the Numbers:
- Construction Peak: 1958 (during the Second Taiwan Strait Crisis)
- Materials Used: 1.2 million tons of concrete reinforced with sea stones
- Abandonment: Gradual from 1979, fully vacated by 1992
The Bunkers Today: Nature’s Reclamation
1. The “Dragon’s Teeth” Artillery Complex
The most intact site features:
- Rusting 130mm Coastal Guns (still on their rotating platforms)
- Faded Propaganda Murals (“Liberate Taiwan!” slogans visible under peeling paint)
- Soldier Graffiti (including a 1963 calendar scratched into concrete)
Pro Tip: Visit at sunset when shadows make the gun barrels seem to point toward Taiwan.
2. The Underground Command Center
Accessed via a collapsing tunnel near Houyan Village:
- Rusted Switchboards with Mao-era wiring
- Hand-Painted Maps of the strait’s shipping lanes
- A Hidden Escape Route leading to a cove (now sealed)
Warning: The tunnel ceiling drips with radioactive radon gas—limit visits to 15 minutes.
3. The “Ghost Sentry” Watchtower
Perched on Nanchang Reef, this lonely tower is:
- Half-Swallowed by the Sea (high tides submerge its lower level)
- Covered in Barnacles that glow blue during plankton blooms
- Home to Rare Peregrine Falcons nesting in the observation slits
Caption: This artillery position near Tannan Village still bears shrapnel scars from 1958 drills.
Why Locals Avoid the Bunkers
- Superstitions: Fishermen believe the ghosts of drowned soldiers haunt the tunnels.
- Safety Fears: At least 3 fatal collapses occurred in the past decade.
- Political Sensitivity: Discussions of Taiwan Strait history remain delicate.
“We played here as kids until Old Wang fell through rotten floorboards. His leg still aches before typhoons.”
— Chen Xiaolong, Houyan Village fisherman
How to Visit Responsibly
Legal Access Points
- Tannan Coastal Defense Park (1 restored bunker with plaques)
- Jiangjun Mountain Trail (3 visible bunkers above ground)
For Urban Explorers
- Bring: Headlamp, N95 mask (for mold), and a compass (tunnels disorient)
- Avoid:
- Touching asbestos-lined walls
- Disturbing military artifacts (fines up to ¥50,000)
- Monsoon season (July-Sept floods tunnels)
Photography Tips
- Use wide-angle lenses to emphasize bunker decay
- Shoot HDR at noon when sunlight pierces roof holes
- Never photograph toward Taiwan (sensitive sightlines remain)
The Bunkers’ Uncertain Future
- Coastal Erosion: 7 bunkers collapsed into the sea since 2020.
- Government Plans: Rumors of a “Cold War Museum” remain stalled.
- Street Art Invasion: Graffiti crews recently tagged several sites.
Last Chance to See:
The most photogenic bunker (near Dongliao Bay) will likely collapse within 2 years due to undermining waves.
Alternative Cold War Sites
- Kinmen Island (Taiwan): Well-preserved KMT bunkers with ocean views
- Xiamen Hulishan Fortress: Restored 19th-century coastal defenses
- Dachen Islands: Abandoned PLA naval facilities turned fishing hubs
